Pizza Is Good, Love Is It, and Cultural Diversity Is Pretty Important, Too

The first time I walked into Sal Natale’s Pugsley Pizza during my freshman year homecoming, my reaction was, “this is Pugsley’s?” Alumni and current students had spoken so highly of it, but I was startled by the excessive name-carving that covered the back wall of the restaurant, thrown off by the loud and unprofessional attitude, and confused by the decor that seemed to follow no pattern. It did not fit my ideal of what a pizza place should be. By the end of my first year, however, I no longer view the restaurant with disapproval, but instead view my initial reaction to it with disappointment. I realize now that Pugsley Pizza does not fit into the traditional pizza place box not because of its shortcomings, but because it has no desire to. Pugsley Pizza embodies New York City’s true spirit of acceptance that makes it the diverse hub of opportunity that it is. The city grows from embracing innovation and individuality, instead of forcing assimilation into one standard. Natale did not have to compromise any part of his dream. He was therefore able to create a successful vision out of nothing and leave his unique mark on New York City, especially Fordham.

Pugsley Pizza’s inner decor is a one-of-a-kind, mismatched masterpiece. The walls are covered with photographs, often of Fordham students, and handwritten signs, such as one telling patrons to “tell Sal to shut up if he talks too much” (Jeffsayyes). The floor is intricately tiled, and the ceiling fans are painted like rainbows. A giant model of the US Challenger spaceship spans the entire length of the ceiling and functions as the restaurant’s vents (Jeffsayyes). On most days, a tray of burned food rests on the counter, under a sign that says, “This is what happens when you don’t pay attention.” Their motto “love is it” appears several times on the walls with other inspirational quotes and paintings. Mirrors line the booths where people eat, and colorful pillows are tossed on the back benches. It feels less like a restaurant and more like the home of a quirky family member, especially since all of the decorations were created by the Natale family (Jeffsayyes). It is not just the design of the place that gives off this homey vibe, however, but also the people there, too. Pugsley Pizza is run by the Natale family, who purposefully mixes family matters and business (bellardini17). In fact, the restaurant’s official Instagram account features pictures advertising products directly next to family birthday pictures. Pugsley’s clearly does not follow an expected business model, and is even unique when it comes to its hours, as it is open as late as five in the morning on some nights (Meyer). Its unconventional look and atmosphere give Pugsley’s what Jeff Orlick, a New York City cultural and culinary blogger calls a kind of “eclecticity” that makes it stand out as a hidden gem in the back streets of the Bronx.

Essential to Pugsley’s character, however, is that none of its quirkiness is arbitrary, but all holds meanings very important to the owner and his story. The restaurant has its own culture built on family, optimism, and love. Its humble backstory gives insight into the popular social hub it has become today. Sal Natale, the founder and owner, is from Sicily, Italy. Despite his poor financial situation, he saved up for a saxophone. After some time in Germany, Natale decided to move to the United States and pursue music when he was 23. He was in a band, at one point called “Crazy Hearts,” that he claims was fairly successful. After some time, however, he realized that he did not want to partake in the drug-ridden rock and roll culture, but wanted a family instead. The band’s drummer was in the pizza business, so Natale decided to follow his example. He began with a restaurant in the Bronx, which is where he began forging his strong relationship with the many Fordham University students who frequented it. When this restaurant tragically burned down, Natale realized he wanted to start a new restaurant specifically for the Fordham student body that he had grown so close to. Natale embarked on search for a new restaurant location, landing him at a plot of land occupied by a gas station. Although he was rejected from using this area, Natale was offered the underwhelming area behind it: a junkyard and a stable. Fueled by what Natale calls “the dream” and what his son calls his “dad’s crazy vision,” the Natale family commenced the junkyard metamorphosis that would eventually amount to his cozy pizzeria (Natale).

This whole metamorphosis was anything but fluid and natural, however. Although the journey would eventually result in great success, the road leading to this success was lined with many roadblocks that, to many, would seem nearly insurmountable. Natale revealed in an interview with Kiara Bellardini from I Am Fordham that, when he began Pugsley’s, “the point was real desperation” (qtd. in bellardini17). He tells the same to Jeff Orlick, saying he was, “down, low, desperate…broke, and everything” (qtd. in Jeffsayyes). Natale was in a situation that would feel hopeless to most, as his lack of money was extremely worrisome. He did not surrender to his fears, however, but kept fighting for success. Fueling him through this tough time was his candle philosophy, which he states as, “All the darkness in the world cannot extinguish the light of a little candle” (qtd. in Jeffsayyes). This quote means that even the tiniest dream is enough to help one through the worst times. Despite his grave finances and the panic they brought, he did not allow himself to forget his vision of a flourishing business. It was on this vision that Pugsley’s was, quite literally, built. Since the candle philosophy played such an instrumental role in motivating Natale, he made sure the restaurant’s design featured this message. For example, on one of the walls is a mural of a rainbow, two clouds, a candle, an actual branch that fell during Hurricane Gloria, and the quote, “Do not fear the storm, it will go by. Wait for the rainbow, it will decorate the sky” (Jeffsayyes). The quote is a metaphor for the restaurant’s backstory. Natale’s “storm” was his financial hardship and the devastation of the fire, and his “rainbow” was the second chance he was given with the gas station lot, right next to the university with whose community he had built such a strong relationship. This offer not only decorated Natale’s sky, but allowed Natale to decorate his community’s sky by spreading his positive message. Another method through which Natale aims to foster optimism is through the giant gong often rung in Pugsley’s. Natale’s explanation for it was, “Whenever you think about the gong, you think about your dream.” He encourages people to make a wish on the ringing of the gong, so that an association is created between the gong and what one hopes to accomplish in the future (bellardini17 and Jeffsayyes). The gong motivates returning patrons to keep their goals and dreams in mind, in the same way Natale did when he founded the restaurant.

Thirty years after Natale made his own dream come true, his message of hope still resounds through the restaurant with each ring of the gong. The positive atmosphere he created greatly impacts his patrons. Tommy Infurna, Fordham University senior and Pugsley’s enthusiast shared, “Pugsley’s just screams ‘happy,’” and it remains for him the heart of so many positive Fordham memories. For Infurna, Pugsley’s is not just another off-campus food place, but a central part of his four years in college. He feels that it radiates good energy, which is exactly what Natale had intended. Fordham University junior Matthew Ordinario agrees, sharing that he has been going there with friends since their first round of finals freshman year. Ordinario shares that Pugsley’s allowed him and his friends to “temporarily forget about all the work [they] still ha[d] left…before or even during an all nighter.” Pugsley’s is a happy place for its patrons, and a place to pause, forget one’s worries, and enjoy life in its often ignored, simple moments, like eating a slice of pizza. Fordham students especially appreciate this mindset. When the college environment gets too overwhelming, they know they can retreat to Pugsley’s as a safe-haven that will undoubtedly make them smile. Natale traces these defining characteristics of his restaurant back to love, saying, “The place is love. It’s built on love. We operate on love” (qtd. in bellardini17). Started because of his desire for a family and realization that he needed a way to support it, Pugsley’s was undoubtedly “built on love.” As for “operat[ing] on love,” Natale channels love through his friendly and familial atmosphere, striking up conversations with customers as he cooks, and showing genuine interest in their lives. Audrey Cawley, a Fordham student interviewed by Bellardini, expressed how noticeable this “love” is, saying, “Everyone’s so friendly here. They’re all like a family” (qtd. in bellardini17). Natale aims to make everyone feel welcome, and it works. Anyone who spends some time there soon feels a part of the Pugsley family, which is why it has become a second home to so many Fordham students.

Albeit incredible, the story of Pugsley Pizza is anything but an outlier in the cultural conglomerate that is New York City. Being such a diverse mix of people, cultures, and interests, quirky and unique places like Pugsley Pizza can easily gather a huge following. Natale is just one of the many immigrants who came to America with a particular vision that elsewhere might have been written off as a too far-fetched idiosyncrasy. Nancy Foner, Sociology professor of Hunter College and City University of New York Graduate Center, explains this New York City characteristic with the term “multiculturalism,” which the International Federation of Library Associations and Institutions defines as the “co-existence of diverse cultures,” combining many different aspects, from morals to communication (IFLA). Foner claims that New York is a “receiving city” because of how immigrants from all different cultures have always flocked there. One out of every ten immigrants that have come to the country since 1900 has found a home there, transforming the city into one with a very large foreign profile (Foner). Natale was just one of millions, flocking, in his case, to a creative haven and seeking a better and more secure future. Fortunately, he, like many, chose to come to a city where gaining a secure future did not require him to give up his identity. With such a wide variety of peoples, it is no wonder that Natale’s unorthodox vision was welcomed with open arms. Its differences were not seen as erroneous or foreign but as innovative and endearing. Foner explains how this is normal behavior for New York City, as there are many ways in which organizations in charge “actively promote events to foster ethnic pride and glorify the city’s multi-ethnic character and multi-ethnic history” (Foner). By acknowledging the specifics of all cultures, it validates them and encourages each to stay true to itself — exactly the attitude Natale needed to be successful and supported. This acceptance blurs the line between cultures, creating an appetite for participating in cultures foreign to one’s own. In Natale’s case, this means that, when people walk into his restaurant, they are not turned off by the colorful, homemade decorations and shockingly friendly staff, but instead have their curiosity piqued and are eager to share in the full experience of a new place.

New, cross-cultural experiences like these only happen because each newcomer to New York is allowed to be themselves. Natale took full advantage of this mentality. Molded by his many unique experiences, from his Sicilian upbringing to his rock-and-roll band, Natale created a hidden gem that is distinctly his own. Because the city is tolerant and curious, Natale’s unedited personality, influential backstory, and his ambitious dream could successfully combine into the Pugsley Pizza culture in which patrons–both Fordham students and diverse Bronx residents alike–are eager to participate. Natale does not try to fit into pre-determined boxes, but thrives by doing whatever he wants. In Katie Meyer’s article for the Fordham Ram, Natale is quoted saying, “We want to have good food, [but] we’re not even chefs! We’re not even pizza people! We cook it like we cook at home” (qtd. in Meyer). Natale did not try to be anyone other than himself, not even a stereotypical chef. His choice to stick to his roots and his vision is what made his restaurant so successful and impressive in a city that thrives on people just like him.

Works Cited

bellardini17. “Pugsley & Sal.” Online Video Clip. YouTube. YouTube, 23 Nov. 2010. Web. 21 Apr. 2015.

“Defining ‘Multiculturalism.’” IFLA. IFLA.ORG, n.d. Web. 1 May 2015.

Foner, Nancy. “How exceptional is New York? Migration and multiculturalism in the empire city.” Ethnic and Racial Studies: 30.6 (2007): 999-1023. Web. 20 Apr. 2015.

Meyer, Katie. “Restaurant Owners Get More Sleep, Less Business.” The Fordham Ram. WordPress, 6 Nov. 2013. Web. 23 Apr. 2015.

Natale, Sal, and Peter Natale. Personal Interview. 16 Apr. 2015.

Orlick, Jeff. “Pugsley’s Pizza — Bronx Wonderland.” Jeffrey Tastes – Queens Qustodian. Jeff Orlick, 23 Nov. 2011. Web. 21 Apr. 2015.